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How to resurface stairs with real wood
By Franklyn Gallup of WoodFloorist.com
Many homes built in the last 40 years have stairs that are not constructed of real wood. This is especially true in tract development houses where until recently the houses were selling faster than they could build them. Stairs were one of the places builders cut costs to stay well priced in a competitive home market. The concept was that the stairs were intended to be covered with carpet anyway so it became commonplace for stairs to be built of 2 by 12 dimensional lumber, plywood, wafer board and yes even particleboard. Since the stairs were going to be covered with carpet anyway the drywall installers, texture sprayers and painters didn't use drop cloths on the stairs at all. The result was a total mess that was covered with carpeting. Many homeowners are realizing what a dirt trap that carpeting is or it is time to replace the carpet. These brave souls take up the carpet to find the mess I just described above. I have been working on a home in the Lake Cushman, WA area for the last two weeks where the new owners wanted to replace the carpeting with wood floors and real wood on their stairs. I took pictures of the process that I would like share with you in case you are considering taking on this project yourself or having a professional do it for you. Steps to resurfacing stairs
1. Evaluating the existing surface. The first three pictures below show the mess I had to start with. Notice the screw pattern where the treads are attached to the stringers below. In resurfacing the stairs you want to screw through the existing treads and into these same stringers. This will drastically reduce the possibility of squeaks in the final results. 2. Cutting off the existing nosing section The first step is to cut off any nosing section that extends past the vertical section at the back of each tread. I used to do this all with a jigsaw and it made a lot of work and an awful uneven cut. The new technique I use is using a circular saw. First, use a combination square to copy the distance the tread sticks out. Combination squares are great for coping measurements. Transfer this measurement to the top of the tread. (See pictures 4 and 5 below). Measure both sides of each tread. Don't assume they are the same. With your circular saw unplugged use the combination square to measure the distance from the shoulder of your saw to the blade. Don't include the width of the saw blade in this measurement. (See picture 6 below) Add this distance on top of the tread to the mark that you made for the distance the nosing extended past the riser. Place a scrap piece of 1 x 2 wood that is straight in line with this second mark on both sides. (See picture 7 below) Nail this board in place on both sides. You can use regular nails if you don't have an air nail gun. Make sure it is secure before proceeding to the next step. (See picture 8 below) Plug your circular saw in and place the shoulder against the board. Hold the guard back and lower the blade into the tread. (See picture 9 below. I took the picture after making the cut as I couldn't manage to hold the saw and the camera at the same time) Repeat this step for each tread. (See picture 10) Use a jig saw to cut out this center section. Repeat this step for each tread. Use a jigsaw to cut most of the rest of the cut to the wall. Use a hammer and break off this last piece. You can use a oscillating tool or a chisel to remove the rest of the cut. 3. Measuring and securing the new surface Use the combination square to measure each side of the new riser. Do not assume they are the same. Use these measurements to mark each side of your new piece of wood and connect the two marks and draw a straight line. Cut this piece with a table saw or jigsaw. Measure the width of each tread and notice if the sides are square or out of square. Make your cut marks accordingly. Apply construction adhesive to the old surface and apply the new riser. Use a drill to drill a pilot hole for each screw. This reduces the chance of splitting the wood. I recommend three screws for each stinger. I have a picture of the box the screws that I recommend for this step as they make a small hole and set themselves. If you have a second drill use it to drive the star drive finish screws in. Make a template of each tread to copy onto the new tread. A Stair Wizard makes a template of each tread which is copied to the new tread. You can make a homemade version of this using bevel squares. The Stair Wizard assumes that the drywall isn't straight. You should assume this too. 4. Filling screw holes Fill the screw holes with matching wood filler. 5. Finishing the stairs Sand the treads and risers and apply the finish. 6. Landings Landings are done with a piece of nosing and wood flooring to match the rest of the floor. In my installation the flooring was rustic red oak, random width 3" 4" and 5" planks.
Helping the do it yourself person get professional results with their wood floor project.
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Contributor's Note
I have been working on a large wood floor project in God's country overlooking the Olympic Mountains and Lake Cushman in Northwestern Washington state, Although God's country is breathtakingly beautiful, it has no cell phone service or Internet connection. I have lots of pictures for more Intels.
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Lake Cushman information
                        
This is the "stairs" I had to resurface. Look familiar?
Looking down at the landing before resurfacing
The bottom stairs below the landing. Notice the screw pattern where the treads are attached to the stringers.
Use a combination square to copy the distance the tread sticks out.
Tranfer this measurement to the top of the tread.
use the combination square to measure the distance from the shoulder of your saw to the blade.
Place a scrap piece of 1 x 2 wood that is straight in line with this second mark on both sides..
Nail this board in place on both sides. You can use regular nails if you don't have an air nailer.
Plug your circular saw in and place the shoulder against the board. Hold the guard back and lower the blade into the tread.
Repeat this step for each tread.
Use a jigsaw to cut out this center section.
Repeat this step for each tread.
Use a jigsaw to cut most of the rest of the cut to the wall.
Use a hammer and break off this last piece.
You can use a oscillating tool or a chisel to remove the rest of the cut.
Use the combination square to measure each side of the new riser
Apply construction adhesive to the old surface and apply the new riser.
Drill a pilot hole for each finish screw.
If you have a second drill use it to drive the star drive finish screws in.
I prefer star drive finish screws for securing stairs.
A Stair Wizard makes a template of each tread which is copied to the new tread. Note the screw pattern on the installed step below the Stair Wizard
Fill the screw holes with matching wood filler
The finished stairs
The finished landing Compare with picture 3
Looking down the completed stair resurfacing
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 |  | sydney appreciated this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Marsha Gellerman recommended this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | LadyD loved this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Jhon s Martin liked this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Mark admired this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | crawfish recommended this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Aupoet recommended this intel. Jul 30, 2011 | | | TDP liked this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Charles Chua C K admired this intel. Jul 30, 2011 |  | | Godfrey King appreciated this intel. Jul 31, 2011 |  | | noline appreciated this intel. Jul 31, 2011 |  | | Laraine admired this intel. Jul 31, 2011 |  | | Michael Jefferson liked this intel. Aug 1, 2011 |  | | Samantha Decker liked this intel. Aug 1, 2011 | | | Rob Stitt liked this intel. Aug 1, 2011 |  | | Grace recommended this intel. Aug 1, 2011 |  | | R Foreman recommended this intel. Aug 1, 2011 | | | tink-r liked this intel. Aug 2, 2011 | | | sonucares4u liked this intel. Aug 2, 2011 |  | | Grandma Marilyn respected this intel. Aug 16, 2011 |  | | Vegetable Oil liked this intel. May 3, 2012 |
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These are awesome instructions and photos, so detailed, precise and concise even I could follow them, provided I had the tools, of course, and at least 5% of your dexterity.
 | | nick Jul 31, 2011 03:31 |  appreciated |
CONTRIBUTOR'S REPLY
Thanks for the kind words. Having the tight tools and knowinf how to use them helps.
A very impressive job on the stairs, Franklyn. I almost wish I had some stairs like that to work on. Producing something as lovely looking as those stairs must give you a feeling of great fulfillment.
 | | Laraine Jul 31, 2011 17:09 | appreciated |
CONTRIBUTOR'S REPLY
One of the things I like about my work is the sense of fulfillment is seeing the finished results.
5* intel. I enjoyed reading and following along with the steps that you listed. Great photos of your work, Franklyn!
 | | LadyD Jul 31, 2011 17:21 | appreciated |
CONTRIBUTOR'S REPLY
Thanks. What was really satisfying was went the customer saw it and loved it.
Many can learn a great many things from Franklyn!
Great job, looks wonderful.
Wish I were there to help.
One Q - placing a new board over the other... doesn't that cause the height to rise as well? or is that overcome by new hardwood at the beginning/ending level - assuming that that the floor level at the bottom will also be additional new hardwood and the floor level at the top will also be additional new hardwood (placed over the existing?)?
 | | tink-r Aug 2, 2011 02:20 | appreciated |
CONTRIBUTOR'S REPLY
The addition of wood flooring at the bottom and at the top did help keep the distance between the steps nearly the same.
Wow! That was a great job. Love the pictures.
CONTRIBUTOR'S REPLY
Thanks. It took many steps to make a great set of stairs.
Its a bit like putting down the next 2 decades or more of life for this most appreciative dwelling.Artisans work are always a fascination to me.
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